We know that fermenting can be an intimidating endeavour. Leaving food to ferment in room temperature is counterintuitive when we've been led to believe that food has to come from sterile containers. To truly appreciate kimchi and all things fermented, we need to learn to trust the microbes. By providing the right environment, they do all the work! Now, let's delve into how kimchi has been stored since its inception in 57 BC.
The Origins of Kimchi
Kimchi’s history dates back over two millennia when it was simply salted vegetables. The word 김치 [kim⋅chi] comes from the words 딤채 [dim⋅chae] or 침채 [chim⋅chae], which mean dunked vegetables. In essence, kimchi is no different from sauerkraut in Europe, where the Mongols introduced the idea of lacto-fermented vegetables.
So how did the humble form of 딤채 [dim⋅chae] transform into the kimchi we know today? Surprisingly, chilli peppers are not native to Korea, despite our reputation for spicy food. They were introduced in the 1400s through the Japanese invasion, who were introduced to it by the Portuguese, who brought it from the Americas. Chinese leaf cabbage or napa cabbage was introduced to Korea in the 1900s from China. Like most food history, kimchi is the product of trade and colonisation. The beauty lies in the innovation of accepting and utilising different produce, evolving into the spicy, vibrant dish we know today.
However, the genius combination of ingredients doesn't simply serve culinary purposes but also scientific ones. The key ingredients of kimchi, such as garlic, ginger, onion, and chilli, contain anti-microbial and anti-fungal properties, reducing the reliance on high sodium content. How smart were our ancestors?!
Onggi Clay Pots
If you have tried making kimchi in jars, you will have experienced the fizzing and bubbling of the content inside as it ferments. Our ancestors knew that kimchi needed to breathe, so they used onggi, which are large, porous, breathable clay pots. These have been used in Korea for centuries to ferment and store a variety of foods, including kimchi, gochujang (chilli paste), ganjang (soy sauce), and doenjang (soybean paste).
The onggi lid would be sealed with sticky rice paste to dry and harden, keeping the contents safe from air exposure and further contamination. Then, holes were dug in the ground, rice hay placed around the walls, and the onggi lowered into the hole where the earth and hay would help regulate temperature. The minerals in the clay also enhance the flavour and nutritional profile of kimchi as it ages.
Storing Kimchi Today
Fun fact: did you know that Koreans have a separate kimchi fridge? While onggi are still used in Korean households in the countryside, modern refrigeration has largely replaced these traditional vessels. Other than the obvious smell, kimchi fridges also have a lower temperature of 1-2 degrees Celsius compared to regular fridges around 4-5 degrees Celsius. The flavour deepens as the kimchi ferments, similar to wine, when kept with minimum air exposure and at cooler temperatures. Oxidation and rapid fermentation make the lactic acid high, rendering the kimchi unpleasantly sour and soggy. To prevent this:
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Use Glass or Ceramic Containers: Metal containers can react with the acidic kimchi, leading to off-flavours and potential spoilage. Stick to glass, ceramic, or food-safe plastic. These materials are non-reactive and can mimic the breathability of onggi to some extent. Ensure they are airtight to prevent contamination.
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Kickstart in Room Temperature: Allow kimchi to ferment at room temperature for 2-3 days before refrigerating. This initial fermentation period is crucial for developing the complex flavours characteristic of good kimchi. Place a bowl or plate underneath the container to prevent your kitchen from becoming a mess from the liquid overflowing from the fizzing. Remember to burp the container and push down the kimchi every day during this first stage.
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Refrigeration: Move it to the fridge to slow down the fermentation process. This helps maintain its flavour and texture over a longer period. Avoid freezing your kimchi as it will break the cell membrane of the vegetable, and the crunchy texture will be lost when you defrost it.
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Monitor Regularly: Check your kimchi regularly for signs of spoilage, such as unusual odours, mould, or sliminess. As long as you get the right percentage of salt, there shouldn't be any issues. In fact, kimchi and pickles are among the safest foods against food poisoning compared to salad bags, eggs, and literally any other fresh foods. Properly stored kimchi can last several years, with its flavour transforming beautifully over time. Mature kimchi is better for cooking than fresh kimchi.
Trust the Microbes
The annual kimjang (kimchi-making ritual) occurs around late November to early December, where families and communities come together to prepare and store kimchi for the winter. This tradition fosters a sense of community and ensures the preservation of both food and cultural practices. When preserving food, a part of you and whomever is making it with you will become part of the final product. The air, the chopping board, the knives, and our hands contain unique microbes that contribute to the fermentation process. Whether you are using an onggi or a modern container, we encourage you all to experience the joys of coexisting with both the microbes and the community.